Men's leather jacket "pilot": what happens and what to wear?
The men's leather jacket "pilot" is a legendary pilot's uniform that has gone down in the history of world fashion. It is called differently: bomber, "aviator", but the essence remains the same. This is an all-season, autumn or spring jacket made of genuine leather with a thin or warm fur lining. All the features of the American bomber and other models of flight jackets are well known to millions of people today. But for a long time, the "pilot" remained an element of uniform, which greatly influenced its cut and functionality.
The modern summer jacket retains the features of its predecessors, but is much better adapted to life in the big city. It allows you to wear clothes with comfort, has a comfortable fit, more loose fit to the body. Fans of bombers can easily not part with this style all year round - there are summer, demi-season, winter versions of "pilots", design elongated solutions. Which option to choose and what can you wear with such models? It will be easier to make a final decision if you learn a little more about aviator jackets.
History of creation
The very first leather jacket for men “pilot” appeared in the 1920s, during the heyday of military aviation. The aviator model, known to most people, replaced it already in 1931 and received the symbol A-2. It was used as ammunition for US Air Force pilots until 1943 and is considered a classic. For civilian needs, the recreated model of the bomber began to be produced 30 years after it was officially discontinued.
Pilot jackets were initially awarded exclusively to pilots upon completion of training at the Air Force Academy. High quality outerwear served for a very long time. Thanks to this, a tradition arose to give pilots' jackets individuality - drawings, insignia, squadron cartridges were applied on them. After 1943, when the original A-2 was discontinued, Army pilots wore G-1 bombers. Since 1988, after the release of the film Top Gun, the legendary "aviators" have returned to the list of uniforms of the American armed forces and remain in it to this day.
Cut features
The classic American bomber A-2 had its own differences, characteristic of this particular model of jackets. It was made of brown horse leather with a mandatory knitted belt and cuffs. The flaps on the pockets in this model have been replaced by a zipper. The "pilot" is characterized not by a knitted, but by a leather shirt-cut collar, with "buttons" at its corners and on the throat.
The winter A-2 flight jacket uses natural sheepskin lining for maximum warmth without sacrificing comfort.
Classic "pilots" do not have a special compartment to warm their hands - it was believed that this is incompatible with a military bearing. But the shoulder straps are provided by the style, as well as the cotton lining with a special print. It is worth noting that jackets made of horse leather have not been produced for a long time; they have been replaced by goat and cow leather, which, with good workmanship, are distinguished by the same durability.
The traditional colors of "pilots" - dark brown or red-brown, today have been replaced by black, white, mustard, blue, green.
The jackets had a close-fitting cut strictly according to the figure, while modern options take into account the characteristics of people with different physiques.
Popular brands
The true trendsetter in the production of pilot jackets is Cockpit brand... It was he who revived the fashion for flying leather bombers, which gained popularity all over the world. The company is releasing both a reissue of the classic A-2 and a more relaxed version of the 21st century model that allows you to pry on several layers of clothing. The brand also has jackets with an original painting on the back.
In addition, among the popular brands are the following.
- Spiewak. Brooklyn-based American brand that started out as a family business. An emigrant from Poland for 16 years managed to turn his production from a supernumerary firm into one of the suppliers of the US Army. The company produces various models of popular bomber jackets in textile and leather.
- Avirex. American company that has existed since 1975. It was its founder who, after the sale of the company in 2006, founded Cockpit. The classic A-2 bomber remains a major hit for Avirex.
Apart from these firms, fashionable pilot jackets are actively produced by many fashion brands... They can be found in almost all major European and American brands, made of genuine leather or its substitutes.
The lineup
The use of “pilot” cut jackets is focused on the period of changing seasons. Fall and spring are the best times to wear sturdy leather clothing. It does not allow rain and wind to pass through, and easily tolerates mechanical friction. The autumn or demi-season version of the "pilot" has a cotton lining that is hygroscopic to avoid the feeling of cold.
It is made with obligatory knitted inserts on the belt and cuffs, which ensure a snug fit of the product to the skin surface.
The winter bomber jacket is somewhat different from its thin counterparts. Initially, it is very similar to the classic Russian sheepskin coat. And this is no coincidence, because at the dawn of aviation, pilots flew in unheated cockpits. The jacket was the only protection from the piercing wind and cold. It was produced with a mandatory fur lining and a voluminous turn-down collar that rose to protect the neck.
Modern winter "pilots" usually do not have elastic bands on the belt - they are more versatile, suitable for men with not the most ideal figure, and mask excess volume in the abdomen.
The Pilot is the A-2, the last US Air Force leather jacket. After her, the uniforms began to be sewn from nylon. She is characterized by a fit - the jacket is designed specifically for men without excess weight, slender, fit in a military fashion. This jacket must have an elastic band on the belt and sleeves, a windproof flap with a zipper. The sleeves, back, chest of the product are decorated with stripes or printed prints in a retro style or with themed aviation paraphernalia.
Bomber or Irvin Jacket - winter insulated jacket, designed by specialists from the UK. It is this model of "aviators" that today has a fur trim along the edge of the sleeves and belt, equipped with a warm lining and a fluffy collar, lifting which you can get additional protection for the neck and throat. On the bottom of the jacket there is a leather belt with a buckle, on the front of the product there is a zipper.
Selection rules
In order for a men's leather jacket of the "pilot" cut to serve for a long time and to meet the most daring expectations, you need to take the most responsible approach to its choice. Among the important points, there are several.
- Mandatory fitting. A jacket that fits exactly to the figure should be tailored to the size of its wearer. This is not a wardrobe item worth buying from online auctions or hand-held.
- Leather quality. Today the best "pilots" jackets are made from well-made goat and cow skins. Pig skin bombers are a low-grade imitation of the original product.
- Seasonality of socks. Winter and demi-season bombers are noticeably different in cut. Of course, you can find models for cold weather with a belt, but their content is likely to be synthetic, not natural.Some options have a detachable collar and lining - they can be considered universal.
What to wear with?
It is worth paying attention to the fact that “pilot” cut jackets have already become an element of mass culture. Instead of the usual total military, it is now worn with brogues - stylish boots, skinny jeans and checkered shirts. A dark brown leather bomber jacket can be combined with an office suit style, but without a jacket. A classic white, blue or even a daring pink shirt with a short jumper to the waist will look harmoniously with straight dress pants, perhaps slightly narrowed.
If you want to make the "pilot" part of a fashionable wardrobe in the warm season, you can wear it in the evening with a white T-shirt and matching sneakers, frayed or ripped jeans... Observing the military-style dress code is also not difficult. It is enough to complement the jacket made of sturdy brown leather with an olive green jumper, cargo pants and high combat boots.
"Aviator" with patches today easily fits even in the style of connoisseurs of hip-hop culture. In street fashion, it is paired with sweatpants, wide jeans, platform sneakers and long T-shirts or long sleeves.
The history of the leather pilot jacket in the video below.