Choosing a men's suit

Men's suits are an integral part of the basic wardrobe, allowing you to provide the necessary respectability and presentability of the image. Classic "twos" and "threes" with a vest are appropriate for business meetings and official events. Relaxed clubwear pairs work well for informal socializing. Existing types of suits allow you to choose a well-fitting set for any type of figure, height and complexion of a person. But in order for the clothes to adorn their owner, you still have to take into account some of the nuances.

Most people consider men's suits to be exclusively formal wardrobe items, devoid of any variation. But if you study the issue more deeply, it turns out that there are many types of such clothes. It is worth considering the most popular options in more detail.

• Classic English costume. It is characterized by a cut with 2 vents, thin lapels, short and narrow shoulders, and a narrowed waist. This option is ideal for slim men as the trousers have a high rise and provide a significant fit.

• American business suit. The trouser set in this case does not provide for pads under the shoulders, there is no emphasis on the waist either, but there is 1 slot on the back, the lapels are thin. A two-piece suit in this case has a comfortable fit, the jacket will be medium in length, up to the upper part of the hip joint. The American type of cut provides only a single-breasted version of the clasp with 2 or 3 buttons; the pintucks are laid on the trousers at the waist.

• Italian costume. It can be with a vest ("three") or in the form of a jacket with trousers ("two"). The Italian style provides for the formation of a beautiful masculine silhouette with wide raised shoulders, wide lapels, and a slightly narrowed waist. Single-turn options with 2 slots or double-breasted with a snug fit and high fastening are allowed, most often with a vest. Pants in an Italian suit are always straight.

• European costume. It appeared in the 80s of the XX century as a tribute to the fashion for simplifying the form of clothing. The result was informal clothing, in which the width of the shoulders increased, the floors lengthened, and the trousers became less tight-fitting. The jackets have no slots, and the lapels have increased the width. In general, it turned out to be a rather interesting silhouette, which added solidity to the male image. However, for people of short stature and dense physique, such a cut is contraindicated.

• German costume. The most practical and austere in form. For its sewing, dense woolen fabrics are used, the silhouette is close to the European one. Differences in details - the armband buttonholes are workers, they are cut and trimmed according to individual measurements.

• French costume. This variation allows for a pair of blazers with shorts or long trousers. The silhouette of the top is more fitted, with a pronounced belt line. Single-breasted models have shorter length and a rounder shoulder line. The double-breasted French suit features wide lapels and an accentuated top line - the best option for those who want to look taller.

• Dinner suit or tuxedo. Evening suit with jacket and trousers, lapels and stripes are made of silk. It is customary to wear a white shirt with cuffs for cufflinks and a bow tie in a pair with such an outfit.A vest or a belt-sash worn at the waist also becomes an addition.

• Tailcoat. Men's suit for visiting official events has a special cut. The trousers are decorated with satin stripes, narrowed down, the jacket is cropped at the front, the hem is long and narrow at the back. Tailcoat is worn with starched shirts, complemented by cufflinks, a snow-white pike vest with 3 buttons and a bow tie.

• French... A military-cut suit with a French-style tunic and straight, loose-fitting trousers. On the chest of such a jacket there are always patch pockets, on the cuffs - a split cuff or a special strap that regulates the width of the cuff. Frenchies are supplied with a turn-down or a stand-up collar, depending on whether or not a tie is to be worn.

The choice of "two" or "three" always depends on the format of the event, the time of year. In the heat, a man can, according to the rules of etiquette, take off his jacket, remaining in the waistcoat. In addition, the "troika" is almost a mandatory option at all official events. "Two" is considered a less formal version of clothing, provides more freedom of action.

When choosing a suit, it is also important to decide on the type of jacket.

• Single-breasted are considered universal and allow you to choose an elegant outfit for men with different body types.
• Double breasted in their cut they are similar to a military uniform and are not suitable for everyone. They fit well on thin, tall men, giving them a special look.

It is of great importance when choosing a men's suit and the style of the product. Most often it is classic suit, not too tight, in the form of a "two" of a straight jacket and trousers with arrows. Such models are considered versatile and everyday, they have welt pockets with a "frame" or flap. The "troika" supplemented with a vest is already more versatile - it is permissible to wear it to a gala event.

Models of men's suits are first of all adjusted in length. French jackets, tailcoats and tuxedos are worn with narrow trousers - this option is too daring for a classic suit. In addition, there are more original formal styles. The business card suit can be with cropped trousers. The club style looks interesting in the form of a jacket pair.

Tapered styles require an athletic build or create the illusion of a slim fit. For example, an Italian suit with an accent shoulder line creates the illusion of a narrower waist.

When choosing a material for a men's suit, first of all, we always mean 100% woolen fabric. It is she who provides the necessary thermoregulation, good fit and durability of the jacket pair. But suits made of wool can also be different - winter and summer options will differ in thickness, density of threads... Most often, the finest fleece of English and Australian sheep is used in their production. Less commonly, the wool of the vicuna, the Peruvian relative of the llama. It is used to create materials that are sold at prices starting at € 1,000 per linear meter.

Cashmere, also made from natural materials - mountain goat down, is a little cheaper. This material is very lightweight, hypoallergenic, wear-resistant, does not form pills. But more and more often, even eminent brands decide to use blended fabrics. And the reason for this is not at all savings on quality - combined fibers are 1.5-2 times lighter. In addition, the added fibers often improve their performance.

All semi-woolen fabrics are usually subdivided into categories according to the type of impurities - this can be polyester, polyester, nylon or viscose. The proportion of impurities in pure wool reaches 30-60%.Polyester lavsan, added to natural raw materials, makes it possible to obtain an almost wrinkle-free light suit for demi-season use. The addition of lycra prevents rapid stretching of the fabric; stretch wool is used in the manufacture of office suits.

With a pronounced interweaving of threads, costume fabric is classified as worsted. The following materials fall into this category of fabrics.

• Boston. Woolen fabric with a pronounced rib on the surface with a diagonal position at an angle of 45 degrees. The weave of the threads is twill, which prevents the fabric from stretching.
• Gabardine. Very dense woolen or semi-woolen fabric for all-season use. This version of the fabric lends itself well to cleaning, easy to clean.
• Crepe. Thick fabric made from 100% wool or semi-wool. Differs in resistance to deformation. It is often used to make budget collections of suits.

There is also a composition of pure wool, there are semi-woolen options. Fine tactile fabrics are characterized by pleasant tactile sensations, they are very comfortable to wear. Among the most popular options are the following options.

• Tweed. It is mainly used for tailoring classic English costumes. On the front side, the tweed suit has a light hairiness, it is very dense, it is completed with 3 buttons and leather elbow pads for increased resistance to wear.
• From the cloth. It is used for sewing winter suits. The hairiness of the material is pronounced, the weave of the threads is plain.
• From cheviot. This type of blended fabric is most commonly used for sewing uniforms. It is dense, has a pronounced antistatic effect, light hairiness. The fabric is prone to diagonal deformation, relatively cheap.

The following are most often referred to as pile suit fabrics on a cotton basis.

1. Fleece. Material with knitted weave threads. Fleece is used to make tracksuits and home clothes. High-quality fleece material has a soft surface, hygroscopic, comfortable to wear.
2. Velours. It is used for sewing designer, smart, home and sports suits. The velor pile is pronounced, with a characteristic shine.
3. Velveteen... One of the most popular cotton-based pile fabrics. The ribbed corduroy suit fits well with casual style. The material is non-marking, elastic.
4. Velvet. Expensive material for sewing an elegant suit. Only jackets are made of fleecy fabric in the men's version of clothing. There are fabrics with a chameleon effect or stretch products.

The most exotic for men's suits are considered today natural suede and leather materials... They are only appropriate in specialized products of an ethnic or design orientation. Silk and satin suits, on the other hand, are expensive and are considered ceremonial.

Among the most popular styles, there are 2 main directions: formal and informal. In the first case, we are talking about a strictly regulated appearance and other characteristics of the product. Among the formal suits, the following options are most popular.

• Classical. This is one of the traditional styles, most often English, in the form of a three-piece with two sides.

• Business... Everything here is also strictly regulated. The suit can be "two" or "three", with a mandatory tie and shirt.

• Business card. Elegant suit with an elongated back of the jacket and a tapered neckline, buttoned with 1 button. A combination with a bow tie and a white shirt is a must.

• The tuxedo. It is customary to wear it in the evening and exclusively for events held under strict protocol.It can only be black, the dress code for him is indicated as black tie.

• Tailcoat. Exceptionally formal formal attire. It is worn on especially solemn occasions. Can be used when you need to create a vintage look. The dress code of the event is designated as white tie.

Informal costume styles are much more varied.

• It is also free casual casual with a careless combination in one suit of elements of different color and texture. In everyday looks, fabrics are often used that are less dense, lightweight, designed for seasonal use. Denim suits are no less popular, in which leather and suede inserts are actively used today.

• Clubwear often features tapered or cropped trousers.... Under it, it is allowed to wear a shirt outside, and not only in white. A cocktail suit, while less formal than a tailcoat or a tuxedo, still obeys strict rules. For example, it shouldn't be black or bright. A dark blue version or pearl gray in the form of a "two", with trousers with arrows and a loose-fitting jacket, will do. The shirt can be white or black.

• Safari is not the most common costume style. It includes a military-style tunic in a semi-fitted silhouette, complemented by an English turn-down collar, and elongated trousers or shorts.

When choosing a style for a modern men's suit, you should pay attention to bold and contrasting combinations, be it the texture of materials or colors. It can be ethnic with its emphasized natural fabrics - unbleached wool, silk, linen. If the suit is seen as casual, you should pay attention to the business style, which is rather strict, but allows for liberties, such as refusing a tie.

Street style is no less relevant in fashion. Here the suit will be multi-layered, with a vest and a trench coat instead of a jacket. Vintage style is also quite popular - you can try on an English-style jockey tweed or wear a set in the spirit of the 19th century. If you want modernity, you can give preference to the casual style, where suit pants are easily complemented by a suede jacket or denim jacket.

When choosing a color for a men's suit, it is very important to understand that it is this accent that will play the most important role in the perception of the image. There are rules here. For example, not all tones and shades are acceptable at formal and special occasions. There are 3 classic options: black, dark gray and blue. They are considered universal.

Colored or two-tone suits are usually created for the occasion. The white monochromatic version is appropriate as an artistic element of the image, but it can also often be seen at weddings. If you definitely want to have a multi-colored set, you should consider the following points:

• turquoise is well shaded with peach and all sandy shades;
• green and olive look good in a shiny performance - from silk, satin;
• brown is best used in a single color;
• a wedding suit can be burgundy, cherry, blue;
• for a prom, you can choose a tailcoat cut and lilac, purple, coral tones of clothing;
• a juicy yellow or orange shade is perfect for a summer linen dress;
• Marsala or khaki color is a good solution for safari style;
• a shiny silver or gold tuxedo is good for a theme party;
• raspberry, currant and any berry tone will favorably set off the bright appearance of a red-haired man.

Some types of costumes necessarily include additions in the form of decor... For example, tuxedos and tailcoats are always with stripes - the legacy of military uniforms. Otherwise, patch buttons can be used in the decoration - where there is no slot on the cuffs. Besides, in men's suits prints are quite appropriate, most often conservative, traditional.

An English tweed blazer and checked trousers are quite an informal pair for walking. Pinstripe suits are often seen as smart or casual. Large prints are usually the preserve of informal fashion. For example, a striped black and white suit might well be considered a summer suit.

Peas are another popular costume print. Tall and slender men can afford such a set and look elegant at the same time.

The best brands that produce stylish men's suits have a predominantly foreign "residence". The US, Germany and Italy set the tone for the fashion market. Among the most popular manufacturers, the following firms should be noted:

• Brioni;
• Tom Ford;
• Canali;
• Hugo Boss;
• Ermenegildo Zegna.

In the segment mass market good suits can be found at Bruno Banani, Asos, Massimo Dutti. If you want to find a kit American style it is worth paying attention to the brands represented in this market segment - Brooklyn Tailors or the equally popular Theory. Among British manufacturers, the most interesting is the world famous fashion house Calvin Klein.

In the top segment the fight is between the Italian costume manufacturers Pal Zileri and the German brand Patrick Hellmann. Haute couture clothes are expensive, but they have the ability to last as long as possible without losing their appearance and quality.

A good suit should fit the figure correctly, take into account and correct its shortcomings. Finding the perfect cut, elegant and stylish, will help you follow certain rules. Not all beautiful jackets fit well at once; trousers most often have to be hemmed and adjusted.

There are a few more tips to listen to.

1. If there is no particular preference for colors, you should choose black, dark gray or dark blue shades. They are relevant for any season and special occasion. If there is one suit in the wardrobe, it should be exactly the base color. Brown tone is also suitable for business meetings - from beige to dark chocolate. It is less formal and allows custom shoes to be chosen.
2. When choosing sizes, it is worth considering that the shoulder seam should end where the forearm is anatomically located. If you feel discomfort when you stretch your arms to the side or to the sides, the size does not fit. When the jacket's hem is buttoned, the palm of the hand should pass freely under it.
3. The length of the sleeve chosen so that it reaches the wrist, but does not overlap the shirt's cuffs.
4. When choosing pants it is better abandon the idea of ​​trying on baggy shapeless models.
5. Men with extra centimeters at the waist you should not choose styles that are narrowed downwards.
6. If you need to visually correct short stature, it is worth choosing dark suits with a thin vertical strip or models of trousers and jackets with a high waist.
7. Men skinny a large cage as a print and light, light fabrics will help add volume.

If we are talking about a classic business suit, it must be complemented with black or brown boots, a white shirt. The use of pale blue or pink shirts is acceptable. If you choose a suit with a classic single-breasted black blazer and skinny pants, you can wear it with a white T-shirt and matching sneakers. Informal sneakers are also good shoes.

Suits without a tie in olive and brown tones will decorate not only white sneakers - they go well with loafers or moccasins, but provided that a long sleeve or polo is worn under a jacket pair. A light pullover and slip-on sneakers go well with a blue casual-style suit.

The print plays a very important role. So, a checkered suit with a bow tie will be less formal than a plain one.

It will also look original with a polka dot tie.

A good suit has long been considered a good investment. But it is not enough to buy a beautiful thing, you still need to be able to maintain it in good condition. To do this, you will have to take into account some points.

1. There should be at least two suits for everyday wear. While one is resting - hanging on a "coat hanger" in a spacious room, the other is being used. This way you can avoid intense tissue deformation - those very "bubbles" on the knees and grease on the elbows.
2. After use, the suit must be cleaned - at home, this can be done with a soft brush with natural bristles. By removing dust and other impurities invisible to the eye, you can prevent them from absorbing into the fabric. When cleaning, you need to move from top to bottom. It is better to forget about sticky rollers for cleaning clothes.
3. When wearing a suit, you should avoid pulling off its pockets with heavy things. For a purse, keys, phone, it is worth getting separate stylish accessories. Otherwise, soon enough the jacket and trousers will be deformed and lose their attractive appearance.

In addition, caring for a suit will inevitably include several more steps, which will have to be repeated from time to time.

Instead of using the services of specialized services that remove stains with rather aggressive substances, you can try to remove the stubborn dirt at home. It is worth cleaning the suit immediately after use: then it will be always ready for use and will not require emergency measures to remove stains.

The first measure of influence is warm water, which needs to be moistened with the problem area. After that, it is worth gently rubbing the place of contamination. If the substance that stains the fabric is persistent, select a stain remover that matches the type of fabric and briefly apply it to the treatment site. You don't need to soak, wash or otherwise expose your entire wardrobe. Especially stubborn stains will be removed in dry cleaning.

Oddly enough, but it is absolutely contraindicated for most modern costumes. On contact with the iron, many fabrics begin to shine or deform. For processing costumes, it is worth getting a special steam generator that allows processing in the vertical plane.

When buying a high-quality men's suit, you should definitely choose a cover for it. Only clean things are placed in it. For travel and business trips, you will need 1 more cover, which is lighter and provides excellent ventilation of your wardrobe items. The long-term storage version should be denser.

In the wardrobe for suits, it is better to highlight your own section, which can provide separate storage of these things in an upright position.... When choosing hangers, you should give preference to wooden or plastic models with wide rounded shoulders.

Observing the rules for caring for a suit, you can significantly extend its service life and always have a set of clothes completely ready for publication on hand.