Tie: description, types and selection
A tie perfectly complements any suit. Its history dates back to ancient times. Over the years, this accessory has changed, improved and today it is able not only to correct imperfections in appearance, but also to emphasize its advantages.
Origin story
If you literally translate this word into Russian from German and Dutch, you get a "neckerchief". He is needed at social events and in everyday life. For a business person, a tie has become part of the dress code.
Men's ties were first used in ancient China. Emperor Qin Shihuang-di was the first who invented to tie a piece of cloth on the necks of his soldiers. When archaeologists discovered the remains of the military in the tomb, it was this accessory that adorned their appearance.
Then there was a second mention, dated 113 AD. NS. Troyan's column depicted legionnaires with a bandage around their necks.
In 1650, Louis XIV invited officers of the Croatian army to the table, from them he learned about the accessory, which he liked so much that he issued an order to appear exclusively with him at all meetings in the future. Translated from French, the tie had a different name - "Croat", the French still use it today.
The familiar designation of the accessory appeared in Russia during the time of Peter I. A decree was issued according to which all men were required to wear a tie with elongated edges. It is worth mentioning that the boyars did not appreciate this innovation and disliked it, as did the need to shave off their beards. The fact was that the tie did not fit with traditional clothes, and was often used as a scarf, with which they simply wiped their nose.
During the life of Pushkin, the accessory changed again. The poet simply adored wearing it around his neck. Byron became the trendsetter. At that time, the accessory was not tightened, but worn freely.
The next round in history dates back to 1827. Honore de Balzac published a whole book detailing the art of wearing this accessory. Balzac was the first to identify several varieties of a tie. At that time, it was recommended to wear it with a tailcoat or tuxedo. Hence the saying that a man is worth the same as the tie he wears. By the quality and high cost of the flap, it was possible to assess the position of the person.
Since 1900, this piece of clothing has become a must when observing business etiquette. The so-called "Croats" are in demand more than others during this period, but they were tied in a knot. Were known about 100 options for how to tie a knot. The quarter is still used today. During this period of history, the bow tie appears, used until the beginning of the 20th century.
The attitude towards the accessory has changed since 1910. The accessory began to be sewn not only for official events, but also for everyday looks.
Today, a tie looks good even in an informal setting.
In 1929, the era of scarf ties came to an end. Jesse Langsdorf receives a patent for the special tailoring technology of the accessory. He boldly declares that this is ideal. Cutting the fabric and subsequent sewing allows you to keep the shape after tying the knot.
Over the course of 9 years, from 1930 to 1939, fashion designers became bolder. New ideas and models appear. Designers use new fabrics, change the texture, color and even the length of the tie. The famous knot known as "windsor" was invented during this period. A pioneer tie appears in our country.
Evolution stops during World War II. The vintage model comes into vogue in the 60s. The tie acquires thin lines, it is long and narrow. This option perfectly emphasized the strict costumes of that time.
Later, wide accessories, which were also called "herring", became more popular. Their width was about 10 centimeters. The accessory has not lost its relevance during the rock and roll period, only the color has changed. The brighter models attracted the attention of young people.
In the 80s, the shape does not change, but in the stores you could find extravagant options made from skin patches. Towards the year 2000, the width of the ties decreases. Accessories with monograms and patterns are in fashion.
Today, there are many options on store shelves that differ not only in width, but also in length and shape. The most popular are those that have a width of 8.26 cm to 8.89 cm. Models from unusual fabrics are becoming more and more popular.
Views
There are quite a few types and styles of ties for men. This is not only a classic version, but also models with an elastic band, a clip or even a zipper.
Classical
This is a long model that is perfect for a tailored suit. The width may vary. It is important to choose it correctly, then the accessory will be an ideal addition to the appearance, and will not spoil the impression.
It is very important to consider a man's physique when choosing this tie. If the guy is skinny, then you should choose a wide model. For those who are short, the standard width is perfect.
According to the existing classification, this model is divided into the following types:
- "Regattas";
- "Windsor".
"Regatta" Has a finished knot and a clasp at the back. This is a convenient option for those who do not know how to tie a Windsor. Most often it can be seen in the composition of the uniform of the police and the military.
"Windsor" can be distinguished by its greater width and length. As a rule, it is presented in a single color scheme - black.
Six and seven folds
Of the distinctive features of this option, the absence of a lining can be distinguished. The thickness of the tie is achieved through several folds of the fabric.
Butterfly
Always the perfect solution for a formal event and a tuxedo. The name is very easy to explain, because from the side the accessory resembles a butterfly.
Ascot
The variation most commonly worn by men while playing golf. In some countries, it is combined with a wedding suit. The history of the origin of the described model began in the 19th century, when they began to wear frock coats.
Bolo
Accessory for the celebration. On its surface there is always a bright brooch that is attached to a leather cord.
Only the most courageous man can choose such a model for himself. A tie perfectly emphasizes individuality.
Plastron
This option is best worn with a vest. Also suitable for special occasions. You can secure it with a pin.
Shar Pei
A distinctive feature is that there are several folds in the knot area. A great option for those who prefer business style or casual. Most of all it is in demand in Scotland.
Dimensions (edit)
Modern etiquette is conservative. If you allow even a slight deviation from the accepted norms, then the image will turn out to be sloppy or too defiant.
Most stylists agree that the length of the tie should reach the buckle on the belt.
When choosing an accessory, it is worth considering the knot with which it will be tied, and the height of the man:
- if the guy is up to 178 cm in height, then the width of his tie should be from 6 to 9 cm, and the length from 135 to 145 cm;
- men with a height of 179-188 cm can use wide models from 7 to 10 cm with a length of 145-150 cm;
- fashionistas taller than 189 cm are advised to choose a tie, the width of which is 10 cm and the length is from 155 to 165 cm.
You can choose an accessory unmistakably by attaching the narrow end to your neck. Then the wide one should be at knee level.
Manufacturing materials
There are several materials from which ties are most often sewn. Each model has its own characteristics and characteristics. Plastic, metal and leather ties are the most extravagant options.
Tweed
This is a great model for every day, if you choose the right color scheme. The material itself is rather rough, tightly woven, so this accessory lies perfectly and perfectly complements the business image.
Grenadine
Models with a dense structure. The fabric can have a wide or tight weave.
The main advantage of this accessory is its versatility. The model fits any look, it is easy to combine it with different stylistic solutions.
Satin
The material has a soft surface, this tie is an ideal solution for a social event. It goes well with a classic black suit.
Cannot be used with colored shirts - the tie will look sloppy from the side.
Silk
Silk fabric has many advantages. It is easy to paint it in the desired shade, so there is a wide variety of the described model on store shelves. There are solid and multi-colored ties. An accessory can be used with any suit of style.
Knitted
Stylish and popular option today. They were first used in the 70s. It goes well with the casual style, as it suits many wardrobe items.
Jacquard
The fabric features intertwined gold threads. Men who prefer elegance choose this option. The tie looks rich, therefore it is used at social events.
Linen
A great solution for the summer. It is difficult to choose a more attractive model for a suit of a light shade.
Woolen
A good model for autumn and winter. Combines with tight suits. Due to the thickness of the material, the knot is not easy to tie perfectly. This is a good option for a denim shirt or cardigan.
Felt
An accessory for daring fashionistas. The fabric is tough, it is difficult to give the necessary shape, so the knot turns out to be sloppy.
Colors and design
Designers offer classic and daring solutions for modern men. A tie has long been considered a symbol of a business suit, but that is in the past. Today you can find a polka dot pattern, a striped accessory or other funny options.
The ideal option is a discreet combination of colors or a monochromatic model. It can be as simple as a black or white tie, or mint, pink.
If you want to stand out, you should opt for a model with a print.
- The appearance depends on how correctly the man chooses the color of the accessory. An example would be a light gray shade. It emphasizes the pallor of the face and the unhealthy complexion.
- Red is brilliant and always stands out from the crowd.
However, if you follow etiquette, then it should not be worn by leaders and those who occupy high positions.
- For a family dinner, choose a burgundy accessory. This is a timeless classic that can be used in a business meeting as well.
- Black is the official color, which is what it is intended to emphasize. It is worn not only by company employees, but also by regulars of social events.
- The blue version is suitable for everyday use.
- A blue tie can be worn for a holiday or a casual meeting.
- For business negotiations, you should not use a brown tie, but in everyday life it is a good option.
- The white accessory is used by judges and lawyers.
Brands
Branded accessories are expensive, so not everyone can afford them. Brand models are distinguished not only by the high quality of the materials used, but also by the stitching.
Brioni
This is the best pricey option you could have in your wardrobe. Made of silk, suitable for both everyday life and special occasions. The average cost is 170 Euros.
Ralph Lauren
The brand offers a wide collection of ties for every occasion. Among them are models for special events and friendly meetings. There are solid, multicolored and printed ties to choose from. Average cost is $ 60.
Ermenegildo Zegna
A well-known brand in certain circles. There is a large collection of blue models. You can choose an option with a small cage, drawings. Silk accessories are sewn. The price of the product starts at $ 180.
How to choose?
If you choose the wrong model, the image will be damaged. It is important to know exactly how long and how wide the tie should be, but not only that. When choosing a product, designers rely on a large number of criteria, including the length of the shirt, its color, and the type of tie.
By size, the following classification can be made:
- 154 cm - a simple option;
- 173 cm - difficult option;
- 180 cm - long version.
If the purchase was unsuccessful, you can shorten the length using a complex knot.
It is equally important to pay attention to the length of the shirt. If you decide to wear it without tucking in, then the wide end of the product should be at the level of 5 and 6 buttons.
The length of the model also depends on the material from which it is made. Textile options are usually 145-180 cm, knitted 154 cm.
How to tie?
There are a lot of knots with which you can tie a tie. The most commonly used are double and universal.
Universal
It also has a second name - "half-windzor". The circuit is very simple. Suitable for various events. The result is an attractive triangle.
To make such a knot, it is necessary to wrap the product around the neck, while leaving the wide part longer. After that, the wide end is required to wrap around the narrow one and pass through the loop. At the end, the process is duplicated.
The variant is suitable for wide and narrow models. It goes well with any shirt.
Double
Not every tie fits this knot. A wide accessory made of soft, pliable fabric is the ideal solution. There should not be a dense lining.
Wrap the product around the neck and wrap the wide part twice around the narrow end. Then it must be passed through the loop and pulled.
The wide accessory can also be tied with two other knots:
- quarter;
- "Kent".
For thin, options are suitable:
- "Windsor";
- Pratt.
What to wear with?
You can wear the described product with a shirt with long and short sleeves. If we talk about the standard of business etiquette, then only a long sleeve.
Pay special attention to the collar height. It must match the width of the accessory. It is equally important to consider the dimensions of the assembly. If a jacket is not expected, then the shirt must be close to the body.
Has recently become popular smart-casual style... In this case, it is worth choosing a model with an unusual texture. If there are no special preferences, then a cage or any other option with a print will do.
Narrowed models or previously used "herrings" are in fashion today. The most popular color scheme is blue-black. The fitted monophonic shirt goes well with the narrow model. The original look can be obtained if the sleeves are rolled up a little.